Safety Functions and Maximum Wattage


We have tested the OPP this time which shows how much power each unit is able to deliver before shutting down. The 500W unit will get you up to 584W, the 600W unit up to 727W, and the 700W unit brings a staggering 1014W before it shuts down. The result for the 700W unit is truly amazing and it means that you can compensate for almost any power fluctuation a modern high-end system could have. The 500W and 600W units also do well of course, and the above results show that all of these PSUs have very good tolerance levels - over-engineering at its best.


500W


600W


700W

In the OCP test we show how much current each of the rails can deliver before the PSU shuts down. The figures seen for each rail are totally normal since all high-end power supplies come with much higher OCPs. Why? This is an attempt to reduce the number of support problems for the manufacturer. If the OCP is too tight some people might have a unit fail on them due to a kicked in OCP. If you run a mean system or many hard drives, it is quite easy to overload one rail. To avoid problems with such systems, manufacturers label their rails at a smaller number like 20A or 25A but in fact set the OCP at 35A.

Efficiency Comparison and How to Choose Your PSU Pricing and Availability
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  • nubie - Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - link

    The only thing I learn from these reviews is to put in a 220v socket (USA) for the PC. It shouldn't cost much and would save on the power.

    I wonder what kind of efficiency you get from OEM PSU's (gateway, hp, dell) in the 250watt to 350watt range, because that is what I use to build PC's and I figure it puts them right in the middle of their power range with a 35-65watt CPU, as is common these days.
  • 7Enigma - Thursday, January 21, 2010 - link

    You sure the 220v US and the 230v Euro are compatible? I didn't think so but I'm not an electrician.

    As for the OEM PSU's I'd LOVE to see some tested. I'm banking on them being completely crap. More importantly than the efficiency would be the stability of these PSU's. Typically OEM's look for the least common denominator for all components, without normally sacrificing reliability when used as intended (ie not OC'd, extra devices).

    But sounds like a great mini-review. Take a typical Dell, HP, Gateway (they still exist?) PSU and put them through the ringer and see who squeals first.
  • JonnyDough - Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - link

    "we hope that Enermax will bring in some really good MIRs (mail-in rebates)"

    There is no such thing.
  • bigboxes - Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - link

    I suppose it depends on the company. I got my Seasonic rebate in two months.
  • JonnyDough - Thursday, January 21, 2010 - link

    You're missing my point. What if you didn't get it? What if you had to cut off a UPC code, and a leg, and mail them in and then it took five months? Why can't they just give instant rebate at the checkout counter at Best Buy? Because they make money screwing people over. The discount only applies to those willing to mess around with the silliness of it all. Those who can't do it properly, lose out on it. Rebates are dumb.
  • 7Enigma - Thursday, January 21, 2010 - link

    No, they make money by the majority of people not participating or participating improperly (forgot the UPC, sent in the wrong one, expired, etc.) Yes there are companies that are out to completely avoid paying rebates. They are the ones that have rediculously short windows for expiration, or just look for reasons not to pay (Tiger Direct....cough....cough). I've done a number of rebates my last 2 computer builds and have yet to not have one honored (most builds I give myself a 1 month window to accumulate all of the parts and heavily bank on the rebates to get better parts than I would otherwise purchase). One or two took significantly longer than stated, but in the end I received all of them WITHOUT having to contact the rebate company.

    Maybe I was just lucky, but maybe, just maybe I read the forms properly and sent in what was required within the allotted time.

    Just one piece of advice if building a computer system. BUILD THE SYSTEM FIRST, THEN SEND IN THE REBATE. :)
  • cfaalm - Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - link

    It can also be the Euro/Dollar rate (at 1.41 now) at work here. When this thing is manufactured in Germany the Dollar price is going to be outrageous compared to the Euro price.

    Then again, when I bought my MODU82+ 525 late december 2008 it cost me 100,00 Euro. They remain amongst the most expensive apparantly still.
  • JonnyDough - Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - link

    I have an Enermax Liberty 500w and a Liberty 620w and they're both still going strong after several years.

    I'm really loving this Modu if there isn't anything better in a year or two when I finally upgrade my Opty 185 I may have to opt for this. It looks like its a bit easier to add/remove cables than my Liberty.

    The gold fan is schweeeeet! At 140cm and with that blade design its gotta be darn near completely silent. Really great job Enermax. You're still my fave. :)
  • JonnyDough - Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - link

    "Enermax will be modifying all of their PSUs to include the CordGuard function going forward, but we really don't think this is necessary."

    I do. Stupid cats.
  • Shadowmaster625 - Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - link

    $150 for a power supply? Does it come with a glass pipe? Sheesh. What I'd like to see is a cheaper power supply that has a big fan like these, but only 300W. Only goofballs need more than 300 watts. I have a Q6600 system overclocked to 3.3 and it doesnt even pull 200 watts fully loaded. If I upgraded to a 5770 it should go to about 230 watts. So what is the deal with these 700W supplies?

    What I'd really like to see is a supply that outputs 50W at near 90% efficiency. Most new computers idle at 50 watts or less, and yet all these power supplies have atrocious efficiencies at that level. Not once have I ever read a review of a power supply that is actually specifically built & specced for 90% of the pc's that actually exist, ie those that idle around 50-75 watts and pull 120-150 fully loaded.

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